Whirlpool dryers use the same F-code language as their washers, plus a few dryer-specific two-letter codes — and the two you're most likely to meet, AF (restricted airflow) and L2 (low line voltage), both have owner-level fixes that cost nothing. Heat needs two things a dryer can lose quietly: full voltage in, and a clear path for hot air out. Most of this code list is the machine telling you which one it lost.
Older Duet models display F-NN codes (F-01, F-22); newer machines pair them as F#E#. Same logic: the F number is the system, the second number the specific fault. The tech sheet folded inside the lower panel of your machine maps your exact model.
Whirlpool dryer error codes at a glance
| Code(s) | What it means | Safe to try yourself? |
|---|---|---|
| PF | Power failure during cycle | ✅ Yes — restart the cycle |
| AF | Restricted airflow | ✅ Yes — clean screen, duct, full vent run |
| L2 | Low/no line voltage (one 240V leg down) | ✅ Yes — full breaker reset; electrician if it returns |
| F-01 / F1E1 | Primary control board fault | ⚠️ Power-cycle once; then call |
| F-02 / F2E1 | Keypad / user interface fault (stuck key) | ✅ Partly — free a stuck button |
| F-22 / F3E1 | Exhaust thermistor open | ❌ Call |
| F-23 | Exhaust thermistor shorted | ❌ Call |
| F-26 | Drive motor circuit fault | ❌ Call |
| F-28 | Moisture sensor open | ❌ Call |
| F-29 | Moisture sensor shorted | ❌ Call |
| F-31 | Low voltage detected at heater circuit | ✅ Yes — same drill as L2 |
| E1 / E2 / E3 | Thermistor faults (compact models) | ❌ Call |
The codes you can handle yourself
AF — restricted airflow
The dryer measures how hard it's working to exhaust air, and AF means the answer is "too hard." Work outward: lint screen (every load), then the flexible transition duct behind the machine (disconnect and clear both ends — and if it's plastic or crushed foil, replace it with semi-rigid metal), then the in-wall run with a vent brush, then the exterior flap where lint mats up. Finish with a timed dry and confirm strong warm airflow outside.
AF isn't bureaucratic nagging — restricted airflow is why dryers overheat, why thermal fuses blow, and how lint fires start. It's also the cheapest "repair" on this page. If AF returns on a genuinely clean run, the vent path itself (too long, too many elbows) is the suspect, and that's a venting fix, not a dryer part. More in our dryer not heating guide.
L2 / F-31 — voltage
Electric dryers heat on 240 volts across a double breaker; the drum motor only needs 120. When one breaker leg trips, you get the classic "runs but won't heat" — and Whirlpool is one of the few brands that names it for you. Flip the double breaker fully OFF, then ON. If L2 or F-31 comes back after a clean reset, stop resetting: the outlet, cord connection, or breaker needs an electrician's meter, not more attempts.
PF and F-02
PF records a power interruption — press start and move on. F-02 is the keypad complaining, usually about a stuck button: run a fingernail around the panel and free it. An F-02 that persists with no button stuck means the user interface board is failing, which crosses the line into service territory.
The codes that mean call a technician
F-22 / F-23 (exhaust thermistor) — the dryer's thermometer reads open or shorted, so it won't heat blind. Confirming means a resistance test at the sensor behind the rear panel. F-28 / F-29 (moisture sensor) — the sensor bars that end auto-dry cycles; when their circuit fails, cycles run wildly long or end soaking wet. F-26 (motor circuit) and F-01 (main board) round out the list — and F-01 deserves its own warning: control boards are the most expensive part to guess at. A technician verifies the board against the tech sheet's diagnostic tests before replacing anything; "the code said F-01" alone has bought a lot of people the wrong $250 part.
One Whirlpool-specific tip from the washer codes guide that applies here too: your machine carries its own tech sheet — folded behind the lower access panel or console — with the complete code table for your exact model. Reading it is fair game; running its live diagnostic modes is where we'd draw the line.
The moisture sensor: why auto-dry cycles lie
F-28 and F-29 are full circuit failures, but there's a softer, far more common version that throws no code at all: coated sensor bars. The moisture sensor is a pair of metal strips inside the drum (usually on the lint screen housing) that end auto-dry cycles when clothes stop conducting between them. Dryer sheets and fabric softener slowly varnish those strips — and a coated sensor reads "dry" early (clothes come out damp) or "wet" forever (cycles run absurdly long).
The fix costs nothing: rub the two metal strips with rubbing alcohol on a cloth, maybe a fine scrub with a soft pad. If your auto-dry cycles have drifted unreliable but timed-dry works fine, do this before suspecting any part. It's the single most satisfying free fix in the dryer world, and it spares the F-28/F-29 diagnosis entirely when the circuit itself is healthy.
Gas vs. electric: which codes apply to you
L2 and F-31 are electric-only — they watch the 240-volt heater circuit, and gas models don't have one. A gas Whirlpool that won't heat usually does it silently: the igniter glows, clicks, and no flame catches (worn igniter or gas valve coils), with no code to show for it. AF, PF, the thermistor codes, and the board codes apply to both. Electric models have the thick 3- or 4-prong cord; gas models have a standard plug plus a gas line — check before you book, because it decides which parts the truck needs. And on gas: the cabinet contains a live fuel line, which is exactly where DIY should stop, code or no code.
Before you call: the five-minute checklist
A meaningful share of dryer calls resolve from this list, so run it once — you'll either fix it free or hand the technician a head start:
- Breaker fully OFF then ON (electric models — half-tripped double breakers look normal and cause both L2 and silent no-heat).
- Lint screen out and washed — if water beads on it, softener film is choking airflow.
- Vent test — disconnect the duct at the wall, run a timed dry: heat with the duct off means the vent run is the patient, and AF was telling the truth.
- Moisture sensor bars wiped with rubbing alcohol if auto-dry is the complaint.
- Write down the exact code and cycle — "F-22 on Heavy Duty, 15 minutes in" shortens the diagnosis you're paying for.
What a Whirlpool dryer repair costs
Dryer repairs run $100–$300 — thermistors, moisture sensors, and switches at the friendly end; motors and control boards toward the top. Every job starts with a $75 service call applied toward the repair, with a written quote before any work and a 90-day parts-and-labor warranty on the fix. Maytag and Amana dryers are the same platforms under different nameplates — everything on this page, including the prices, applies to them too.
Frequently Asked Questions
What does AF mean on a Whirlpool dryer?
AF is restricted airflow — the dryer can't push exhaust air out fast enough. Clean the lint screen, the flexible transition duct, and the full wall run to the exterior flap. AF is the dryer protecting itself from the overheating that clogged vents cause; treat it as accurate until proven otherwise.
What does L2 mean on a Whirlpool dryer?
L2 means low or no line voltage on one leg of the 240-volt supply. The drum can still turn on 120V but the heater can't run. Flip the double breaker fully off and back on — a half-tripped leg looks normal. If L2 returns on a clean reset, have the outlet and breaker checked.
What does F-01 mean on a Whirlpool dryer?
F-01 is a primary control board fault. Power-cycle once — unplug for a minute, restore — to rule out a one-time glitch. If F-01 returns, the board needs diagnosis. Don't buy a board on the code alone; a technician confirms it against the tech sheet first, because boards are the most expensive guess.
Are Maytag and Whirlpool dryer codes the same?
Largely yes — Whirlpool builds Maytag and Amana dryers on shared platforms, so the F-code system and codes like AF, L2, and PF carry over with minor model differences. The tech sheet inside your specific machine's cabinet is the authoritative list for that model.
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